Surfing

The waves today were big and violent, more than I was able to handle. No wonder the beach was nearly deserted. Everyone must have had the same experience as me, which was to try and try to get to past the break, and then turn back and give up when it was clear we mere mortals would never succeed (some of the superhuman surfers made it). Finally I said, oh f that, I'm just going to have fun; so I did that (slightly embarassing) kiddie thing of riding in after the wave breaks. I was a real trail-blazer doing that, because a little while later, there were a lot more surfers in the water - and most of them were doing what I was doing.

I wonder if a longboard is, in fact, a disadvantage for breaking through. No one ever talks about that part. The longboard is so bouyant that it's almost impossible to dive under the wave, and it gets swept up wherever the tide goes.