San O

Because the guy at the surf shop said that he only had 8-footers, I didn't pay attention when he handed me a 6-footer. So, I went today to San Onofre, a beautiful longboarder's paradise with easy, even waves...and I had to learn how to shortboard. I got up, at least. Now I know I can do it, even on relatively little waves. Though I'd rather be longboarding. I still maintain that I'm too old to learn too many new tricks. It's like why I refuse to learn how to snowboard: I'd rather just have more fun (skiing).